When your skid steer track steps off the idler, the first instinct is often to call for a second machine or a mechanic—but you can usually get it back on alone if you know the right sequence. The trick isn't brute force; it's loosening tension, lifting the machine correctly, and using pipes or pry bars to walk the track over the front idler while the rear is seated on the sprocket.
Most owners underestimate how much track sag new rubber tracks need. A track that's too tight will hop off under load, while one with 1–3 inches of sag stays seated. If your mini skid steer (Arteer, AGT, Landhonor, Rippa, or Vermeer) keeps shedding tracks, the real fix is regular tension checks during the first 10 hours of use, not just reinstalling the track once.
What Causes a Skid Steer Track to Come Off
Tracks separate when tension is wrong, the idler is damaged, or the rubber has stretched beyond its original shape. Over-tightening is actually more common than people admit—new tracks stretch quickly, and if you don't retighten every 1–2 hours during the first 10 hours, they loosen and slip off.
Other real-world causes:
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Grease cavities in the idler filled with dirt instead of clean grease, pushing the idler back too far
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Worn or broken track teeth that don't grip the sprocket
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Lifting the machine incorrectly so the track droops off the side
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Running the track over rocks or debris that forces it sideways
If your track keeps falling off after you've put it back, the problem is almost always tension, not installation technique.
Step 1: Loosen Track Tension Completely
Before you touch the track, you must release all tension. Every skid steer has a grease-filled tensioner under an inspection cover on the side.
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Remove the inspection cover (usually held by 2 bolts, 9/16" or 14 mm).
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Locate the set screw or plug in the center of the idler cavity.
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Loosen the set screw with a 17 mm impact socket (or 12 mm or 1/2" wrench) to release grease.
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You'll hear grease squirt out—this pulls the front idler back, making the track loose.
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Clean the grease cavity with a flat tip so dirt doesn't jam the idler next time.
The track should now have visible sag (5–6 inches floppy on top). If it's still tight, loosen more.
Step 2: Lift the Skid Steer So Tracks Are Off the Ground
You don't need a fork lift or another machine. Use the skid steer's own bucket and jack stands or blocks.
Blocking method (3 blocks at the rear):
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Place three solid blocks right against the rear metal of the machine.
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Start the machine, lift the boom, lower the bucket, and tilt forward.
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Press the bucket down into the ground—the rear will pivot up onto the blocks.
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The entire machine lifts, tracks hang free.
Alternative: lift arm + chain method
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Wrap a chain or strap around the top of the track and over the lift arm.
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Slowly raise the lift arm to pull the track back and confirm it's loose.
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Put blocks under the rear, then use the bucket to lift the front.
Never work under a machine supported only by the bucket—use blocks or jack stands as a secondary safety point.
Step 3: Seat the Rear Track First on the Sprocket
Start with the rear. The rear track must be fully seated over the drive sprocket and rear idler before you touch the front.
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Push the rear track down over the sprocket teeth using pry bars if needed.
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Make sure it's centered and not off to one side.
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If the track is completely off, position it so the rear sits on the sprocket and idler first.
This is critical: if the rear isn't seated, the track will twist when you try to force the front over.
Step 4: Use Pipes or Pry Bars to Walk the Front Over the Idler
Now the front. The trick is placing metal pipes between the track teeth and over the front idler to create space.
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Place 2–3 steel pipes (or large pry bars) over the front idler and between every other tooth on the track.
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Skip every other tooth—this spreads force and keeps the track aligned.
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With two people, push the pipes forward; with one person, you'll need to:
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Get in the cab, rotate the track slightly, exit, reposition pipes, repeat.
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The teeth will clear the front idler once the pipes are all in place.
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Slide the track over the front idler with a pry bar—metal slides easy on metal, no huge force needed.
Screwdriver method (for mini skids, risky but works):
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Start the machine, drive forward slowly.
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Use a very big screwdriver to wedge into the gap between track and idler while the track moves.
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Turn the machine on and push the screwdriver to force the track over.
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Do this at your own risk—keep hands outside the track, use your palm, not fingers.
Once the track is over the idler, reverse the track slowly; the pipes fall out automatically.
Step 5: Re-tension the Track with Grease
Now you must tighten the track so it doesn't slip again.
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Reinsert the grease plug and tighten the set screw bolt.
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Use a grease gun to fill the cavity with about 1/2 tube of grease.
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Tighten the adjustment screw (5/8" or 16 mm) until the track feels tight but not rigid.
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Check tension:
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Measure from end plate to spring mount through the slotted hole (Vermeer: 9.25" target).
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Or check sag: 1–3 inches of sag is normal; 5–6 inches floppy is too loose.
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Put the inspection cover back on and secure the bolts.
Why Tracks Keep Falling Off After Reinstallation
This is the failure layer most guides skip. If your track comes off again within hours:
The #1 reason tracks keep falling is not re-tensioning during the first 10 hours. New rubber stretches rapidly. Drive 1 hour, retighten. Drive 2 hours, retighten. Repeat until the rubber wears in. After that, you might only need to check every 10 hours.
How to Check Proper Track Tension and Alignment
Correct tension prevents both slipping and premature wear.
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Sag test: Push down on the top track between idlers. You should see 1–3 inches of movement. More than 3 inches is too loose; less than 1 inch is too tight.
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Measurement test: On Vermeer, measure from end plate to spring mount through the slotted hole—target is 9.25".
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Visual alignment: Track should sit centered on all rollers. If it's rubbing one side, the frame may be bent or the idler misaligned.
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Post-install test: Drive forward and backward 3 feet each direction, then re-check measurement with tension off.
After 5–10 hours of use, re-check and adjust. New tracks need this.
AFT Parts Expert Views
At AFT Parts, we've seen hundreds of track-off cases across contractors, rental companies, and service centers. The pattern is consistent: most track failures aren't installation errors—they're tension maintenance issues. New rubber tracks stretch significantly in the first 10 hours, and owners who skip the retighten every 1–2 hours routine end up with repeated track-offs.
From a parts perspective, worn sprockets and damaged idlers are the second most common cause. If your track keeps slipping after proper tension, check the sprocket teeth. Flattened or broken teeth won't grip the track, causing sideways walk-off. AFT Parts manufactures precision-engineered sprockets and idlers compatible with CAT, Komatsu, and Kubota undercarriages that restore original tooth geometry and prevent this.
Geographically, we've supported clients from Ontario to Alberta and Quebec to Saskatchewan with undercarriage replacements. The bottom line: install correctly, tension aggressively early, and inspect wear parts before blaming the track itself.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did my skid steer track come off in the first place?
Most likely, the track was too loose (excessive sag) or the grease cavity was dirty, pushing the idler back. New tracks stretch quickly and need frequent retightening.
Can I put the track back on without another machine?
Yes. Use jack stands or blocks at the rear, lift the front with the bucket, and use pipes or pry bars to walk the track over the front idler.
How tight should a skid steer track be after reinstalling?
You should see 1–3 inches of sag on the top track. For Vermeer models, the measurement from end plate to spring mount should be 9.25".
Is it normal for a new track to need frequent tightening?
Yes. New rubber stretches rapidly. Tighten immediately after installation, then retighten every 1–2 hours for the first 10 hours of use.
What happens if I over-tighten the track?
Over-tightening increases wear on idlers, rollers, and the track itself, and can cause the track to hop or break. Stick to 1–3 inches of sag.