Where To Buy Case Rubber Tracks Manufacturer?

The size code is what you buy; the manufacturer is who you buy it from. On a Case machine that distinction matters more than usual, because Case built its tracked machines across several families - compact track loaders, mini excavators, larger crawler excavators - and the tracks are not interchangeable between them. So the first question is not which manufacturer, but which size your machine takes.

Last updated: October 5, 2026

This guide covers what Case rubber tracks are designed to do, the sizes this catalogue lists by model, what to confirm before buying from any supplier, how the tread and compound change the outcome, and the maintenance that decides how long a set lasts.

What Case rubber tracks do

Case rubber tracks are heavy-duty continuous belts built for the company's tracked machines: excavators and compact track loaders. Their job is to carry the machine's weight across a long contact patch so ground pressure stays low, provide traction on the surfaces the machine crosses, and absorb shock before it reaches the undercarriage. That combination is what lets a tracked Case machine work on turf, on finished surfaces and in soft ground where a wheeled machine would rut or compact - and it is also why the belt is a wear part with a predictable set of failure modes: abrasion, cuts, and the tension and alignment discipline the operator brings to it.

The sizes listed for Case models

These are the Case tracks in this catalogue, with the machines their listings name.

Case model	Track size
440CT, M400T, TR310	400x86x50
CX20B, CX20BMR, CX22B, CX22BMC	300x52.5Nx76
CX36, CX36B, CX36BMC, CX36BMR	300x52.5Nx88
28 MAXI, CK28, CX28	300x52.5Wx78
35, 35 MAXI, 35STB, CK35	350x52.5Wx86
50 MAXI, 50RTB, CK50, CK52, CX50	400x72.5Nx72

Reading the code is the same on every Case machine: width in millimetres, pitch between link centres, link count, then the lug pattern. So 300x52.5Nx88 is a 300 mm belt on a 52.5 mm pitch with 88 links. The pitch has to match the drive sprocket, the link count sets the length - and a belt one link out cannot be tensioned correctly, whatever else is right about it. Where the machine is not on this list, or the marking on the belt does not match the row, ask for a cross-reference against the serial number rather than ordering the nearest size.

What to confirm before buying from any supplier

Four items, and they are the same whether you buy from a manufacturer's own channel or from a specialist.

The part-number cross-reference naming your machine, model and serial number against the belt. The specification as supplied: cord construction and insert count, tread pattern and depth, and the compound's purpose. The compound's published temperature band, which in Canada is a specification rather than a detail - a belt formulated for a mild climate is a different product from one rated for frost. And the warranty terms as a period plus an operating-hours cap, whichever comes first, with freight responsibility named for a claim.

A supplier who answers those from documents is selling a known quantity. One who answers with a brand claim is selling a photograph - and on a wear part, that is the difference between one set and two.

It is worth being specific about the word "manufacturer", because listings use it loosely. A manufacturer moulds the belt, forms the joint and knows which batch it came from; a distributor buys that belt and resells it, and a rebadger puts a brand on something they did not make. All three can be legitimate suppliers, but only the first can answer questions about cord construction and joint inspection from their own process - so when a listing describes itself as a manufacturer, the test is whether the specification comes back with the detail a maker would have, or with a sentence about quality.

Tread, compound and the job

Two belts of the same size can behave very differently, because the tread and compound are chosen for the ground. An open, deeper lug pattern clears mud and grips in soft or loose material; a smoother profile leaves less mark and runs cooler on hard surfaces. Where the machine works both, the usual compromise is a multi-purpose pattern rather than the most aggressive belt available.

Compound follows the same logic in the other direction: abrasion resistance and cold flexibility pull against each other, so a belt built for broken concrete is not the belt to buy for lawn work. Before choosing a pattern, it is worth settling what the machine actually crosses - whether rubber tracks are directional is a related detail that affects how a set is fitted and rotated - and confirming what the specific Case model needs, as in the notes on tracks for the CX36 family.

Making a set last

Four routines decide whether a belt reaches its design life. Clean the tracks and undercarriage after abrasive work, because packed material grinds between belt and frame and grit trapped in the tread cuts rubber from the inside. Check tension to the manual's figure, measured the manual's way, on both sides, and re-check it after the first weeks of a new set while the belt beds in. Inspect the lugs, shoulders and cord at each check, along with the rollers, idler and sprocket. And note the hours, terrain and size when a set goes on, so the next purchase is a comparison rather than a guess. A machine working mixed ground benefits from the same discipline as one on abrasive ground, for the same reason: the failure that ends a track usually starts at one of those four points. The same principles travel across machines, which is why the buying framework in this guide to Komatsu PC12 Avance R tracks applies to a Case machine without change.

This article is part of the rubber tracks guide, which covers how the size code works, tread patterns, compounds and buying a set in Canada.

FAQs

How do I know which rubber tracks fit my Case machine?

Read width, pitch and link count from the track you are removing, confirm them against the model table above, and have the part number cross-referenced against your serial number before ordering. The model name alone covers several Case families.

Does it matter which manufacturer I buy from?

Less than the specification and the documentation. A documented belt with a stated cord construction, tread depth and warranty is a comparable product whatever the badge; a cheaper belt without those is not comparable at all.

How long do Case rubber tracks last?

It depends on ground, tension and the condition of the rollers and sprocket, so the useful reference is your own record. Keep the hours, terrain and size of each set and after two sets you will know your machine's expected life better than any published estimate.

Can I mix tracks from different manufacturers on one machine?

You can fit different belts to the two sides, but expect them to wear at different rates and take the machine out of balance. Where both belts have done the same work, replacing them as a pair is the better decision.

What should I do with old tracks?

Judge first whether the set can serve as a spare: a belt that still holds tension with intact lugs has a second life in that role. Otherwise send it to a rubber recycler, and keep the dimensions, link count and hours on file for the next order.