Where To Find Skid Steer Rubber Tracks For Sale?

Searching for skid steer tracks "for sale" returns the widest possible range of sellers, and the price tells you almost nothing about which one to use. What separates two listings for the same size is the paperwork behind them: a fitment cross-reference, a stated cord construction, and warranty terms you can actually claim on. On a part that carries the machine's whole weight, those three are the purchase - the belt is the delivery.

Last updated: October 5, 2026

This guide covers where these tracks are sold, the size check that has to come first, what the specification should contain, how the tread and compound decision works, and how to compare two quotes so the cheaper one is genuinely cheaper.

The size check comes before the search

A skid steer or compact track loader track is defined by three numbers: width in millimetres, pitch between link centres, and link count. Width sets ground pressure and flotation; pitch has to engage the drive sprocket and cannot be adjusted; link count is the belt's length, and a belt one link out will not tension correctly. The letter in the code describes the lug pattern, which is chosen for the ground rather than for fitment.

Take all three from the track you are removing - the marking is moulded into the belt - then confirm against the machine's manual and serial number. With that code in hand, "for sale" becomes a specific question: who has this size, in this country, this week. Without it, you are comparing prices for a part that may not fit.

Where to look, and what each channel is good for

Undercarriage specialists and track retailers. These are the sellers who list by machine and part number, hold the sizes they advertise, and can talk about pitch, link count and tread pattern. For a machine that is down, this is usually the fastest route to a correct belt - and the one most likely to have the sprocket or rollers you discover you need.

Machine dealers. OEM tracks with the manufacturer's backing and warranty, at the highest price and often the longest wait when a size is not in stock. The right route where the machine is new enough that warranty questions matter.

Marketplaces and auctions. The widest choice and the least verification. They work when the listing states the size, the cord construction and the warranty, and when the seller will put a fitment cross-reference in writing; otherwise the photo is all you are buying.

Importing directly. Manufacturing volume abroad can reduce the unit price, in exchange for lead times measured in weeks, freight on a heavy item, and a return path that costs nearly as much as the order. It makes sense when the machine is not under time pressure and the specification is documented.

What the specification has to contain

Four items, and they are the same whichever channel you use.

The cord construction. Steel cord is what holds the belt's pitch under load - ask for the cord type and the number of inserts, not the word "reinforced". The tread as supplied: pattern, depth and purpose for the belt that will ship to you. The compound's published temperature band, which in Canada is a specification rather than a detail; a belt formulated for a mild climate is a different product. And the warranty terms as a period plus an operating-hours cap, whichever comes first, with freight responsibility named for a claim.

A seller who answers those from documents is selling a known belt. One who answers with a brand claim is selling the photograph - and on a wear part, that is the difference between one set and two.

Tread, compound and the ground

Two belts of the same size behave differently, and both choices follow the ground rather than the price.

An open, deeper lug pattern clears mud and grips in soft or loose material; a smoother profile leaves less mark and runs cooler on pavement. Where a machine works both - which is most skid steer work - the sensible compromise is a multi-purpose pattern rather than the most aggressive tread available, because a deep lug pattern scrubs the surfaces the machine crosses between jobs. Compound follows the same logic in the other direction: abrasion resistance and cold flexibility pull against each other, so a belt built for broken concrete is not the belt to buy for lawn work. Where the machine is used on hard surfaces, it is worth knowing whether the tracks are directional before choosing a pattern, because that affects how a set is fitted and rotated.

The second half of the decision is what the belt runs on. A new track fitted onto a hooked sprocket or flat-spotted rollers wears out early, and the parts that cause that are in the same catalogue - idlers, rollers and sprockets are listed by machine, and the durability of a track on a skid steer is discussed in more depth in how durable skid steer tracks are on a given machine. The belts themselves, by size and machine, are in the rubber track range.

How to compare two quotes honestly

Put four numbers side by side: the landed price (part, freight, tax), the delivery date in writing, the specification as supplied, and the warranty terms. Then add the cost of the days the machine stands if the part is wrong or late - on a working machine, that line is usually the largest of the five.

Two habits make the comparison reliable over time. Record the size, hours and terrain whenever a set goes on, so the next purchase is measured against your own history rather than a seller's claim. And keep the old belt's dimensions on file when it comes off, because that code is what a supplier needs to check fitment if a belt fails early.

This article is part of the rubber tracks guide, which covers how the size code works, tread patterns, compounds and buying a set in Canada.

FAQs

Where can I find skid steer rubber tracks for sale?

Undercarriage specialists, machine dealers, industrial marketplaces and direct importers. Start with the size from the track you are removing, then choose the channel that can deliver that size with documentation and a date.

How do I know which size I need?

Width, pitch and link count from the marking on the track you are removing, confirmed against the machine's manual and serial number. Pitch in particular has to match the drive sprocket exactly.

What should a listing tell me before I buy?

The part-number cross-reference for your machine, the cord construction and tread depth as supplied, the compound's temperature band, and the warranty terms with freight responsibility named.

Are cheap skid steer tracks worth buying?

Only if the specification is documented. A belt with a stated cord construction, tread and warranty is comparable whatever it costs; one without those is a bet on the seller's supply chain, and the loss is usually the belt plus the parts around it.

Should I replace both tracks at once?

If both have run the same hours on the same ground, yes - the machine otherwise steers against the older belt and wears the new one faster. A single replacement is reasonable when one belt has been damaged early on an otherwise sound set.